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White coloured BilbyCNC PLA Filament not working

I use many types of PLA on my Rep 2 but have had absolutely no success with the bilbyCNC white PLA (I only have one spool of it so I cannot rule out that it is just that one spool with a problem). It seems to comeout globby to start with and then will just completely stop coming out of the nozzle (and then the drive wheel chews into the side of the filament).


I have no trouble with any of the other colours (I have had success with BilbyCNC red, black, purple, blue, yellow etc).


Has anyone else had this issue?

Are there different temp settings or a change in plate height etc that has helped resolve this?



Not sure if it's old stock, but I ordered some about a month ago and got this same issue with white PLA.

I'm having the same problem with a recent order from BilbyCNC. I ordered the following;
Glow blue

I have tried the Red, Orange, and Silver. They all have the same problem. I have also order White and Silver before and I did not have any issues with it. I still have been using it and it works fine.

I am using a Replicator 2 at 225*C. Since it was getting stuck in the barrel, I have installed a new barrel and nozzle. Yet the problem persists for those three colors.

I tried dissolving a sample of red, orange from this order and a silver from an old order from Bilby. As well as a black and white from another supplier that works. I used Caustic Soda, as it is suppose to be good from dissolving PLA. The results are as follows;
RED - not much change
Orange - became brittle but did not dissolve much
Black - degrade and dissolved partially

Black - degrade and dissolved partially

I am retesting with Acetone, as it is said to dissolve ABS really well. I think as the reels are not labeled and only the boxes are labeled from BilbyCNC, that there might have been a mix up and ABS was labeled PLA. That might cause the issue.


i just bought a white ABS and its the best ABS I have used.. I had some blue from another supplier and its so brittle i cant feed it in the feeder without breaking, and the grey from HK was ok. But 3 weeks delivery..

I fought with my printer all weekend with the white filament blobbing. The worst is on support prints where a blob means a gap which translates to a failed print. I tried very hot, very cold, very slow and very fast and everything in between.

I sympathize Craig!

I blew enough white BilbyCNC PLA over this past weekend to feel the loss - despite finally getting a good enough/usable print after a worrying 11hr close watch of every layer!!

My issue related more to what seems like the white PLA having a greater warp tendency than what I've experienced to date.

I was using the latest BilbyCNC supplied glass build plate with motor trimmers masking tape, a coating of Uhu glue stick and extra hold hair spray  - which; by the way, have worked wonders at preventing warping in the past on my MBI supplied acrylic build plate.

Not sure it's worth mentioning/requesting... but a repository of tips/tricks/info relating to PLA specific information such as 'shrink' factor by colour/optimum extrusion temps by colour/optimum extrusion speeds in relation to model complexity/shell recommendations for strength vs detail i.e. mechanical model print considerations as compared to 'art' type considerations... etc, etc. is something I've noticed is lacking in the literature I've managed to glean regarding the MBI/additive fabrication/Reprap 'scene'.

I know there's chunks of that sort of info/data doing the rounds of the net - especially in some of the Google forums etc... but; there's times even that info is like following the rabbit down the rabbit hole - or, you're left with the impression that it could have been posted by a seven year old hiding behind the facade they've created of a 29yr old veteran of the 3D printing universe.

Anywayz... my Rep2 is currently chugging away on a 10hr print of the bottom half of a sculpture using the white BilbyCNC PLA - and (fingers crossed/touching wood/sacrificing whatever's necessary to whichever most powerful entity makes our 3D printing life a living Hell or conversely 'true Bliss'!!!) so far it's printing beautifully.

Then to find out whether Plasti Weld Plastruct Cement works as well on the white PLA as it has on natural and blue!



Has anyone found a decent, non destructive way to remove/reduce warpage on a finished PLA printed piece that will be glued together?

The attached pic shows the piece I mentioned in my previous post - with warping along the bottom edge clearly visible.

That warped surface is intended to be glued onto the corresponding surface of the sculpture's base, which is printing without warp.

I had considered heating the warped base surface and applying pressure to the sides of the whole piece with the warmed up base placed on a smooth flat (and cold!!) surface...  Maybe use a microwave to warm the base up by wiping a moist damp cloth over the warped surface; place the model on a flat plate/tile and run microwave on about 10-20% for a couple of minutes before removing and putting on the glass build plate after sticking the build plate in the fridge for about 30min or so.

Anyone have any thoughts/recommendations?


Hi guys

a) call us if you have a problem, we would replace faulty filament, but in most cases it is something we can solve for you. In this case it is a compination of dry filament and a dry barrel. Try the very very simple 30second fix attached




In regards to Stephen Crisdale on Mon, 10 Mar at 4:35 pm

What are you using on the build plate and do you have open top and sides? This is clear shrinkage and lifting. 

-The blue tape most people use holds the prints really well but the tape lifts off the plate

-The cream tape hold to the plate really well, but not the print as well unless you rough it up and coat with acetone

-We have been experimenting with Carbon fiber sheet which solves both issues.

Short term fix - wipe acetone on tape before printing and pause job about 1 cm up and allow to cool. Once solid it will not arc up and you can resume print. If you are less patient (which is the case with me) add a raft and tape the raft down hard about 2 layers up into your model.

Hope it helps in the future.

With this model - I had 4 parts of a 26 part show piece be left in the window on a hot day and turn into bananas. I used the heated bed on a 2x to warm the model to about 40-50 degrees and it bent back flat.  In the past I did the same with an oven tray - BUT You really want the heat source from the base only. In winter i have been known to use grease proof paper on the fireplace and let the base melt flat

Lastly we have a heat gun (but a hair dryer should also work) to soften the base then sit on a flat surface and hold till cool. You may need to do it a few times.

Hope it helps




Thanks Lee for the info...  I ended up using a heat gun - very carefully used! to remove the warp before gluing the pieces of my build together. A little bit of filling on the seam, some sanding and a marble coloured coat of paint, and nobody who has seen the final piece can spot the join!

Meanwhile; I've experienced some issues with printing which seem to indicate the "dry barrel" syndrome you mention... though in my case the print not only stopped extruding right on the last few percent (a bit annoying!), but when I decided to cancel the print, my Rep2 spat the dummy and just kept spewing out filament at an accelerated rate until I turned off the power!

I'll definitely follow the instructions in the PDF you linked, and also pull down the extruder just in case  some of the other issues mentioned in the PDF are applicable in my case - though I'm hoping not!

BTW; in answer to your query about the covering on my build plate... I'm using the roll of cream tape I purchased from you, in combination with UHU roll on glue stick plus a light spray of "extra-hold" hairspray. This combination has worked pretty well for me with the supplied blue and natural PLA, and it seems to work most times with the white...

Also; I'm wondering whether there's any reason why it seems the extruder seems to 'knock' into just laid down parts of a build as the height of the build gets closer to the printer's maximum build height?

Anyway; many thanks for the response!

Hey guys.

I too have recently switched to BilbyCNC after using a certain NZ supplier. Nice to support something out of Bega that isn't just cheese. I've ordered a roll of Glow in the dark blue 3mm and some rolls of red,white and black 3mm for my OrdBot Hadron

Anyway, Im finding that my PLA has to be headed Very high for it to extrude well... around 240c.. ABS temperatures!!.. and this appears to be introducing warp, Ive never had to get the hotend so hot for the other manufacturers filament.

I can confirm it said PLA on the vacuum bag. I've done the burn and smell test and even whilst extruding it smells like PLA.

Sometimes however when I print (more recently), there is a black build up on the outside of the nozzle. its almost an oily type buildup and can be easily wiped away whilst hot, but cools down and hardens like plastic.

Any ideas why Im getting this deposited on my hotend? I've never quite had to get this hot to extrude reliably before (colder temps introduces issues with long infills). Ive tried reducing my steps per mm to check if its over extrusion and it doesn't seem related.


I should point out also that this black stuff is getting "wiped" into my print.. both internally and externally.

Printing at .16mm layer height with a 0.25mm nozzle on an Ordbot hadron with a Bulldog XL / Merlin hotend.

See the shots of 2 affected prints and one normal.

Hi James

I am going to admit i do not use the 3mm very often, only my ulitmaker uses it.

Firstly, to the black stuff - is it like carbonized filament or oil?

I extrude at 230 degrees - ABS and PLA - and 240 should not be an issue either.

You talked about it having flow issues - could the diameter be out?

Re the question is it ABS or PLA - put a small piece in acetone. ABS will dissolve, pla will just soften around the outside.

We had a small number of black 3mm ABS labeled as PLA through human error this month. I hope this is not the case with your red.

Also does it happen with other colours? 3mm is not as popular (less than 1% of filament sales) so it may have aged and dried out - have you read this article ?:

If you are still having problems, or the diameter is out, log a ticket. We stand by our product, if its faulty we will replace it.




Thanks for the update.. You weren't a customer of Clear Networks by any chance were you? I did alot of stuff up in Bega/Eden

Yes, I noted the date code on the bag was quite old. We hadnt tried the oily rag as I assumed this would only introduce more "black stuff"

Unfortunately I cant test "Right now" as my hotend crashed into the bed, destroying both. I'm currently awaiting replacements from WA.

I will point out that the hot end was full of this random black substance when I tore it down (in the threads) and the PEEK was discoloured (possibly due to the crash dislodging the thermistor)

I'm in the process of building another machine right now so will let you know.

Just as a follow up to this.

We are now having great success printing with the Bilby CNC White 3mm PLA. The flow, colour consistency and warpage are leaps above the Red we originally used

Mind you this is with my new hotend after the last one crashed into the bed, so testing isn't like for like but the old one was less than 200 hours old.

The Red currently sits off to one side for me to test in some acetone to see if perhaps its actually ABS


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