I use many types of PLA on my Rep 2 but have had absolutely no success with the bilbyCNC white PLA (I only have one spool of it so I cannot rule out that it is just that one spool with a problem). It seems to comeout globby to start with and then will just completely stop coming out of the nozzle (and then the drive wheel chews into the side of the filament).
I have no trouble with any of the other colours (I have had success with BilbyCNC red, black, purple, blue, yellow etc).
Has anyone else had this issue?
Are there different temp settings or a change in plate height etc that has helped resolve this?
Not sure if it's old stock, but I ordered some about a month ago and got this same issue with white PLA.
Black - degrade and dissolved partially
I am retesting with Acetone, as it is said to dissolve ABS really well. I think as the reels are not labeled and only the boxes are labeled from BilbyCNC, that there might have been a mix up and ABS was labeled PLA. That might cause the issue.
i just bought a white ABS and its the best ABS I have used.. I had some blue from another supplier and its so brittle i cant feed it in the feeder without breaking, and the grey from HK was ok. But 3 weeks delivery..
I fought with my printer all weekend with the white filament blobbing. The worst is on support prints where a blob means a gap which translates to a failed print. I tried very hot, very cold, very slow and very fast and everything in between.
a) call us if you have a problem, we would replace faulty filament, but in most cases it is something we can solve for you. In this case it is a compination of dry filament and a dry barrel. Try the very very simple 30second fix attached
In regards to Stephen Crisdale on Mon, 10 Mar at 4:35 pm
What are you using on the build plate and do you have open top and sides? This is clear shrinkage and lifting.
-The blue tape most people use holds the prints really well but the tape lifts off the plate
-The cream tape hold to the plate really well, but not the print as well unless you rough it up and coat with acetone
-We have been experimenting with Carbon fiber sheet which solves both issues.
Short term fix - wipe acetone on tape before printing and pause job about 1 cm up and allow to cool. Once solid it will not arc up and you can resume print. If you are less patient (which is the case with me) add a raft and tape the raft down hard about 2 layers up into your model.
Hope it helps in the future.
With this model - I had 4 parts of a 26 part show piece be left in the window on a hot day and turn into bananas. I used the heated bed on a 2x to warm the model to about 40-50 degrees and it bent back flat. In the past I did the same with an oven tray - BUT You really want the heat source from the base only. In winter i have been known to use grease proof paper on the fireplace and let the base melt flat
Lastly we have a heat gun (but a hair dryer should also work) to soften the base then sit on a flat surface and hold till cool. You may need to do it a few times.
Hope it helps
I too have recently switched to BilbyCNC after using a certain NZ supplier. Nice to support something out of Bega that isn't just cheese. I've ordered a roll of Glow in the dark blue 3mm and some rolls of red,white and black 3mm for my OrdBot Hadron
Anyway, Im finding that my PLA has to be headed Very high for it to extrude well... around 240c.. ABS temperatures!!.. and this appears to be introducing warp, Ive never had to get the hotend so hot for the other manufacturers filament.
I can confirm it said PLA on the vacuum bag. I've done the burn and smell test and even whilst extruding it smells like PLA.
Sometimes however when I print (more recently), there is a black build up on the outside of the nozzle. its almost an oily type buildup and can be easily wiped away whilst hot, but cools down and hardens like plastic.
Any ideas why Im getting this deposited on my hotend? I've never quite had to get this hot to extrude reliably before (colder temps introduces issues with long infills). Ive tried reducing my steps per mm to check if its over extrusion and it doesn't seem related.
I should point out also that this black stuff is getting "wiped" into my print.. both internally and externally.
Printing at .16mm layer height with a 0.25mm nozzle on an Ordbot hadron with a Bulldog XL / Merlin hotend.
See the shots of 2 affected prints and one normal.
I am going to admit i do not use the 3mm very often, only my ulitmaker uses it.
Firstly, to the black stuff - is it like carbonized filament or oil?
I extrude at 230 degrees - ABS and PLA - and 240 should not be an issue either.
You talked about it having flow issues - could the diameter be out?
Re the question is it ABS or PLA - put a small piece in acetone. ABS will dissolve, pla will just soften around the outside.
We had a small number of black 3mm ABS labeled as PLA through human error this month. I hope this is not the case with your red.
Also does it happen with other colours? 3mm is not as popular (less than 1% of filament sales) so it may have aged and dried out - have you read this article ?: http://bilbycnc.freshdesk.com/solution/articles/3000007888-oily-rag-solves-load-problems-best-tip
If you are still having problems, or the diameter is out, log a ticket. We stand by our product, if its faulty we will replace it.
Thanks for the update.. You weren't a customer of Clear Networks by any chance were you? I did alot of stuff up in Bega/Eden
Yes, I noted the date code on the bag was quite old. We hadnt tried the oily rag as I assumed this would only introduce more "black stuff"
Unfortunately I cant test "Right now" as my hotend crashed into the bed, destroying both. I'm currently awaiting replacements from WA.
I will point out that the hot end was full of this random black substance when I tore it down (in the threads) and the PEEK was discoloured (possibly due to the crash dislodging the thermistor)
I'm in the process of building another machine right now so will let you know.
Just as a follow up to this.
We are now having great success printing with the Bilby CNC White 3mm PLA. The flow, colour consistency and warpage are leaps above the Red we originally used
Mind you this is with my new hotend after the last one crashed into the bed, so testing isn't like for like but the old one was less than 200 hours old.
The Red currently sits off to one side for me to test in some acetone to see if perhaps its actually ABS